Provins is a medieval town designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It lies about 90km to the southeast of Paris in the Champagne region. One can get there from Paris either by car or by train from Gare de l’Est (and a minibus connects the station to the town).
The town is composed of two distinct sections. The older part up on the hill dates right back to the 10th century, and this is connected by steep roads down to the “ville basse” which developed a little later on. The upper town served as a fortified stronghold. This pattern was common to many medieval towns – the older section on higher ground being defensive, and the lower part being residential and commercial. The “ville haute” of Provins was known as the “Châtel” (from “château”) – but I believe this term is peculiar to Provins and not a general term.
Provin’s heyday was the 12th and 13th centuries (1100s & 1200s), when it was famous across Europe for the production of thick and durable woolen fabric. The wool itself was taken from the sheep reared in local pastures. The finished fabric was sold in large fairs (the Foires de Champagne), including at Provins itself, attracting merchants from far and wide.
The lower town was encircled by a network of rivers and canals, diverted from the Voulzie river for the town, and in particular to support the textile production which required large quantities of water for washing (and some minimal dying) of the wool. These waterways certainly add to the charm of the ville basse today.
The ramparts
We arrived there by car over flat fields, and had the impression that the town was in the middle of nowhere. But Provin’s remote location belies the historical importance of this place – my guidebook affirmed that it was at the time “la troisième agglomération de France après Paris et Rouen” (the third largest settlement after Paris and Rouen). The view that greets you as you arrive at the entrance of Porte Saint-Jean (13th century, which i forgot to photograph) is, once seen, never forgotten – see the captioned photograph.
Other scenes
“La collégiale Saint-Quiriace” was richly adorned during the Renaissance, and Jeanne d’Arc attended mass there in 1429 (given her tender age, she was quite the traveller). The church today stands in a rather barren square. The English conquered the town during the 100 years war, and pulled down the various buildings there in order to consolidate the protection of the town.
We just strolled around, had a nice meal at a restaurant off the main square, and admired the well-preserved ancient stone buildings. We had arrived too late to attend any of the events laid on, but the tourist office can direct you to the falcon show, the chevalier show and several guided tours.
The “rose de Provins” was famous at the time for its medicinal qualities. Before leaving for home, you can taste – and buy – the gorgeous honey produced locally and flavoured by rose petals.