A trip to Hong Kong (part 2 -architecture)

Ugliness

The first point we can make, without fear of contradiction, is that most of the cramped accomodation in Hong Kong is irredeemably ugly. 

With the high demand for housing, aesthetic concerns came secondary to practical ones. Lack of funds for good housekeeping, and the necessity of placing the hideous air conditioning units in plain view only made things worse.

 

The two exceptions are Hong Kong’s Colonial-style buildings, and the buildings of the financial district, where wealth has placed an emphasis on appearance. Let’s take a step back and run through the different styles of Hong Kong’s buildings in chronological order.

 

1 – early residential buildings

 

Hong Kong was a fishing village, and the modest low-rise buildings of the mid 19th century, made with wood and bamboo, have not lasted. The humid climate and regular typhoons contributed to a short lifespan of these buildings, and very few pre-war structures still stand.

 

2 – Colonial buildings (1841-1941)

 

During the British colonial period, nice British architectural styles were emulated (Neoclassical, Victorian, Edwardian). These had aesthetic value and included features like columns, pediments, some ornamentation – and large windows for ventilation in the hot, humid climate of Hong Kong. But this style was reserved mainly for public buildings like court houses, police stations, schools and churches, though there were some examples in the private sector when a statement needed to be made – for upscale hotels or private clubs for instance.

The Peninsula Hotel at the South end of Kowloon, built in 1928 with a style to reflect opulence and prestige (and a UK-style double-decker bus passing by as a further reminder of the British connection!)
St John’s Cathedral – this Gothic-revival style building is found on the Island, near the Peak cable car entrance

3 – the post-war construction boom (1940s-50s)

 

There was an increased demand for housing with the influx of refugees after WW2 and the Chinese Civil War in the late ‘40s. The buildings of this time were four to five storeys high (stories high, if you’re American), had narrow staircases and no lifts. They often allowed for shops on the ground floor. We find this style mainly in Kowloon and the New Territories.

The low white building in the centre is a good example of this style. The taller building to the left illustrates the next style in our list.

4 – mid-rise housing blocks (1960s-80s)

 

A little higher than the earlier buildings, at 8-10 floors, and sometimes with elevators. Simple concrete blocks with exposed pipes, not generally nice on the eyes.

 

These buildings tend to overhang the pavements in order to maximise space:

The iconic “Monster building” from the ‘60s on the east end of the Island would be another example, but stands a little higher than other buildings from this time.

 

5 – highrise residential towers (1980s-2000s)

 

Sprung up in clusters to meet housing demands. Concrete blocks over 20 floors.

I suppose this peculiar tower also belongs to this category:

(near the North end of Temple Street)

6 – modern highrises and financial skyscrapers (1980s – today)

 

Extremely tall (over 40 floors), with modern materials (including glass facades) and sleek designs which could be described as “high-tech” or “contemporary”. These are found in the newer developments, and Hong Kong Island – especially the financial district.

The Lippo Centre (also known as the “Koala Building” after the resemblance to koalas clinging to a tree)
Another modern edifice (somewhere on Central, but i can’t remember where exactly)

The two towers

 

The International Commerce Centre (the ICC) at 484 meters (118 floors!), situated on the southern tip of Kowloon, looks across the bay at “Two International Finance Centre” (Two IFC) on the waterfront of Central.

View of the ICC across Victoria Harbour
View of “Two IFC” and all the other financial skyscrapers of the Island.

Backstreets

 

Unlit backstreets running between buildings are a feature of the urban landscape in Kowloon. I’ve seen this in Bangkok and Singapore too – I wonder why we don’t really see this in the West. They’re not usually used for anything at all, except rubbish, but can sometimes be repurposed.

(a barbers)
(extra restaurant seating)

Scaffolding

 

Bamboo is used for scaffolding here! One feels uneasy at first walking under these temporary structures, bamboo poles held together by string, but they’re not known to fall down. Bamboo is resilient during typhoons, as it can bend and give a little.