A trip to Hong Kong (part 7 – exploring the North)

/ TRAVEL

In the second half of my week in Hong Kong I visited the northern towns of the territory. I transferred to a hotel in Tsuen Wan, and then from there I visited Yuen Long and Tai Po (there’s a map of these locations in my first post of this series).

 

TSUEN WAN

 

It was interesting to observe the marked contrast of the two sides to this town. My hotel (the Nina Hotel) was spacious and comfortable (with a great view from my room on the 60th floor – see the captioned photo!), nestling in a complex of modern shopping arcades. These arcades are pretty much the same across the world – air conditioned, light jazz in the background (the universal background music), a bit of an airport feel but clean and with lots of good eating options. On the other hand you can experience the hustle and bustle of the traditional neighbourhood (Chuen Lung Street, Ho Pui Street, Chung On Street) and sit down for bad noodles, dumplings and a drink for 7 euro. 

A seemingly never ending series of interconnected malls (Nina Mall 1, Nina Mall 2, Skyline Plaza, Citywalk 1, Citywalk 2…)
Shopping malls are for the affluent, selling jewellery, watches, good quality clothes and decent food. These “hawker bazaars” in town sell low quality goods.

Walking about town

 

Here are a couple of short videos – the first striding through one of the main streets of the town, possibly Ho Pui Street. And the second a butcher’s with a tannoy on repeat from dawn to dusk with the same phrase announcing the prices of the meat. Enough, I would have thought, to drive you mad if you worked there.

Wet markets

 

This is an experience! Wet markets are usually housed in unprepossessing concrete multi-story buildings. The floors selling fruit, vegetable and flowers are pleasant enough but the stench of the meat section is indescribable.

Outside the wet market building of Tsuen Wan
The seafood section, with fish flapping around on plates
Revolting hygiene.
Poor chickens in cages being eyed up by customers. The customer points to one which would then be slaughtered, drained upsidedown and prepared, and the customer would return for it half an hour later.

More sights

The pedestrian is a second class citizen – I wanted to take the road directly in front of me, but barriers blocked my way, there was no obvious way to get there and even the overhead walkway didn’t access it!
Bars are few and far between. If you walk past one, you should note the address carefully not to lose it for ever. This was a nice one I stumbled across just off Hau Tei Square (it was Halloween time)

YUEN LONG

 

These northerly towns are not so tightly packed as Kowloon, they have pleasant central squares against the background of mountains in the distance.

On the way to the centre of town from the Long Ping MTR station
The town centre (Kuk Ting Street meets Shui Che Kwun Street)
A Taiwanese restaurant
A mahjong parlour. They are very defensive and don’t like you loitering outside or poking your head around the door.
Old people playing Chinese chess
A free foot massage

 

TAI PO

 

A real relaxed provincial feel with absolutely no tourists, no hotels and a more well-to-do vibe than the other towns I visited. Many residents commute to Kowloon and the Island from here.

On the way to the centre of town from Tai Po Market Station
Tai Ming Lane Square

I found a small restaurant off the main square to eat but it was impossible to make them understand, and I ended up with a kind of beef/noodle and chicken/omelette set. I didn’t know how bad chicken could be! So after eating badly I felt I had exhausted what Tai Po had to offer and I set off for the station again.